Day 14 This is going to be our Big Final Day

Ok so today we are packing for our last day of walking. My blister was taped up and strapped up and with only 15.5 miles to go until my toes get dipped into the North Sea at Robin Hoods Bay. A place I cannot imagine, even though I've said the name every day for months as I have described my trip to people and tried to imagine the feeling of arriving after a192 mile trudge.

It will become real today unless anything dreadful happens.

We left Grosmont and for the first 30 minutes of walking it was a 33% uphill climb on the narrow road out and up to more heather moorland. 2 weeks ago this climb would have been so hard but we stormed it after all our ascents of the last 177 miles.

We needed a back marker today but with 13 people and 14 days of walking where we had all taken a turn we decided that my stripey hat would be worn by each of us for half an hour as back marker. We admined it perfectly, after all, we were a tight team by now. 

Look at Shirley she looked super stylish , even with her banana skin.

The day passed and we had incredible views of the sea with great skies, little fluffy clouds and lots of blue. 

At Hawsker Magaret's friend Karen appeared with home made chocolate brownie for us all as a treat. She had driven over 2 hours from Manchester to meet us all and had been tracking us across the moors. 

We eventually reached the coast but still had 3 miles to go until The Bay. We walked with the sea to our left and there appeared a double rainbow that started and ended in the sea.

Just look at that view. A treat for our eyes, spurring us on.

Look in the background. That's Robin Hoods Bay. Look at my face. I'm so giddy. I'm skipping along even though my toes are squished and my hooves need to be set free of my friendly boots as soon as I can.

The walk down into the Bay is so steep. We trot down the steep sloping road past the shops with souvenirs and there it is, the small bay with the sea.

I totter slowly into the water. I AM HERE, I HAVE DONE IT 192 MILES walked across England. 

It felt strangely low key, was that it? My boots are in the North Sea. The end of my journey with 13 other great people. Karen arrived with champagne for us all, what a great lady, just perfect. We congratulated each other with hugs and smiles and cheers and photos. Another rainbow appeared. 

I put my pebble into the waters edge. 

And turned my back to the sea to trudge back up the hill to the waiting coach to take us back to the hotel.

And that's another story. Back at the hotel I gave birth to my feet out of my boots for the last time, went to collect my room key and turned around. My face was a picture. There were Holly and Charli. In my hotel. They had driven over from Manchester, 3 hours drive to see me and welcome me back. What a wonderful surprise. I had no idea of their plans, the little monkeys. I couldn't quite believe it that they were with me even if it was just for 2 hours. THANKYOU girls. You are my superstars and what a great reason for being self sufficient and driving yourselves wherever you choose to go. We celebrated with chocolate on my bed.

Apparently I was a bit smelly.

I waved the girls off at dinner time still not quite believing they had really been here and then celebrated with prosecco which I bought for our team. I stood up and handed our collection to Howard, our leader that had painstaking lead us safely over all the terrain, 192 miles across our gloriously unspoilt North of England as a volunteer for HF Holidays. He immediately passed the collection to Elizabeth and I to give to our charities as we were the only two who were walking for charity. We were lost for words. It didn't seem right but Howard was adamant and we had to accept with grace.

What a day, what a night. What a two weeks. I have an amazing life. It's been a privilege. 

I've DONE it and I can still put one foot in front of the other. I'm so happy. Thank you for reading and supporting me.

Xxxx 

Day 13 And my feet are suffering

This morning the sun shone on top of the moors but it was windy and felt quite cold. I wrapped myself up warm in my hat, gloves and minion jacket and we started the long tramp across the heather moorland. I also felt that I may be getting a cold but that went away as the day progressed.

We came across Fat Betty, a white painted stone where it was tradition to leave food for her. I left her some floral gums, she may appreciate those.

This is Elizabeth and I with Fat Betty.

Looking in the far distance I could make out the sea. OMG was that really the sea? The North Sea? 

I was giddy.

This is my giddy face with the sea in the distance behind me, not easy to see in the picture but trust me it was there.

By lunchtime my left heel was feeling sore and my socks were not behaving. The compeeds had left so much sticky stuff deposited on my inner socks that they were sticking to my feet and my outer socks and looking inside there was a juicy blister forming. Oh no this wasn't good news. I re dressed it and we clopped on until suddenly the heather and moorland had disappeared and we were walking in woodland and along village roads. Thank goodness for my poles as I hobbled on. I am seeing my future now with poles as aids.

This is us all on Beggars Bridge.

At Grosmont, our final destination, there was an old fashioned station and crossing and I wandered up to the working sheds to see a steam train that was being renovated. Don't ask me why I walked further than was necessary today but I was nosey and didn't want to miss out on anything. I went to find some of the team in the local pub and joined them for a quick drink. I also went into the sweet shop and bought a bag of rhubarb and custard sweets to share out on the bus ride back.

Tonight was Dollies birthday celebration and we had cake and sang "when I'm 64" because she was. 

I bought her a small sheep as a momento of our trip and we ate her cake all together as we went through the answers to the quiz Howard had set at the beginning of the walk. I got 43/50 but not all the answers were mine as Elizabeth and I had conferred last night.

My feet are hot, sore and blistered on one heal. But the last 15.5 miles will not defeat me tomorrow. 

Robin Hood's Bay I'm coming for you. Watch out.

X

Day 12 Refreshers and Floral Gums

Today our coach was 15 minutes late which meant we would miss our elevenses break again :(

It was supposed to rain this morning but the sun was shining and the forecast was wrong thank goodness. There was still a cool wind though so during the four peak climb up and down this morning I put on my striped hat and whiled away the downward walks chewing floral gums which I had carried in my pocket for the whole trip.

I'm looking particularly unstylish but at least my ears were warm.

Once the four peaks across the ridge of the Cleveland Hills had been accomplished we joined an old disused rail line that used to lead from the iron mines. It was 6 miles of flat trail through heather with grouse occasionally flying up as we disturbed them. Except for this one bold grouse that stopped to chat to us.

He had white feathery legs and a very deep voice.

My shadow that has followed me most of this walk.

2hours it took us to walk the six flat miles and we came to a pub where we were being collected. We were half an hour early before the coach was due so time for a quick drink and sit down in the warm.

Look at the sky as we arrived at the pub.

As the coach set off we were suddenly in a downpour and the cloud had closed in very quickly. We finished our walk just in time. 12.5 miles. 

After dinner tonight there was a tour of Whitby in the dark in an open topped bus. It was freezing but interesting to be shown round the town although we couldn't see a lot. The abbey was dark and looming on the cliff but it was something different to do instead of going to bed early. 

Two more days and I'm going to miss this walking trip and all my new friends.

X

Day 11 Dicing with Death crossing a railway line and the A19 dual carriageway

This morning we left Hartforth Hall in rain and headed off in taxis to our start point Danby Wiske where we left off last night.

Today we were aiming for 17 miles and we continued to tramp the flat pasture land for about 8 miles in the rain. Alfred Wainwright called this part of the walk the trough of despond, The Vale of Mowbray.

We crossed a working railway line. Looked both ways lots of times to check nothing was coming.

Then we headed towards the A19 which we could hear in the distance. I was shocked to find there was no bridge over or under for walkers. We had to run for our lives with juggernauts heading for us at 70 miles an hour. Thankfully there was a central grassed section that we could wait halfway but it was not a good place to stand.

Now we hit the uphill which took us to the top of a hill that we could see for the past two days. Steep zig and zag and suddenly we were looking back across the whole Vale of Mowbray as the clouds lifted, the rain stopped and the sun started to appear.

We are now on the North York Moors and the scenery has changed completely. Heather, open moorland and big skies.

We are heading for that peak in the distance but there's a good two miles before we get there.

My feet are feeling like hooves again and my boots are wet. It's a long slog today. 17 miles in 6.75 hours with 700m ascent.

A coach collected us for the hour drive to Whitby Larpool Hall. The sun was out, there was a rainbow in the distance and it was lovely to sit down and rest as we had very short breaks due to the bad weather.

Exhausted today. 

X

Day 10 Flat Land and Cloudy Skies

It was a cloudy day.

We went in a taxi back to Richmond and set off following the Swale river heading East, of course.

The day was unremarkable starting off through lovely woodland by the river leading on to grassy fields with gates and stiles separating one from another across the Vale of Mowbry.

There was some excitement as we crossed the A1 when we realised we had passed the two thirds mark. Yippee. Each step was one step nearer our destination.

Lunch was eaten once again in a churchyard which I must say is a bit weird but at least this time there were seats and people weren't sitting on grave stones.

In the afternoon we passed through some fields of maize and wild flowers which added some colour into the day and also an ingenious plastic box set up in a hedge with a visitors book inside. It had been put there by the farmer who helped make the tracks good for C2C walkers so they could write a comment as they passed through.

Alfred Wainwright described this part of the walk as uninspiring and said it was time for contemplating the incredible scenery passed in the Lake District and the Yorkshire Dales and what lies ahead on the North York Moors.

15 miles on we entered Danby Wiske bringing our total to 132.5 miles in total with approx 60 left to do.

My feet are starting to feel like hooves in my boots by the end of the day. My boots need a good clean but I think that may happen tomorrow in the wall to wall rain forecast. It's going to be a long hard slog tomorrow.

Back at Hartforth Hall our hosts David and Anne laid on Pimms in the pink drawing room before dinner. I had a Sunday roast of beef followed by lemon meringue pie and by 8.30pm most people were heading for bed. And this is supposed to be a holiday????

Time to get my feet up too. X

Day 9 Lady Loz in Hartforth Hall

Hold the walk, we just arrived after 10.5 miles of green fields, blue skies, sheep and cows, at Hartforth Hall, Richmond, North Yorkshire. 

What a place, Fawlty Towers still lives. It's grand, cheesy and owned by David who gave us a guided tour  of his historical country mansion hotel.

There's a wedgewood room where the tables were laid out for dinner, a pale pink drawing room, two staircases one of which has various deer heads and antlers hanging off the walls. Each room is named after a poet and wifi seems alien here even though it is available.

The weather today has been full sunshine and blue skies with white fluffy clouds. A delightful amble over grassy fields through many gates and various stiles. Lots of people around today on the trail as it was Saturday and a nice day. One chap came by me and said I look like I'm ready to go from trail to nightclub in my outfit. Oh yes, so I could but too tired to go dancing tonight.

Another 10.5 miles ticked off. Total of 117.5 miles done. Very little ascent today 330m finishing up at Richmond where we had time to wander the shops and get a 99 as a reward.

Goodnight from damp pillows and a flowery bedspread. X

Day 8 Reaching the 100 Mile point Yippee

Once again we had a dry day forecast with possible showers in the afternoon. We were driven back to Keld in the mini bus for the start of our 8th day of walking.

Today we passed mainly through an area of dereliction as this was where the lead mines used to be until the early 1900's when they were closed down due to foreign imports of lead.

We passed derelict buildings that had once been a hive of industry worked by hundreds of men and even women and children had working roles here. 

There was evidence to be seen of scars in the hillsides and displaced shale piles all around. It was a sorry sight after the countryside views of the previous days.

Our lunch spot today marked the 100 miles of our journey walked so far. I celebrated it with another group selfie.

The sun was shining on us all.

Today we passed a few small groups doing their gold Duke of Edinburgh. They were traipsing along with massive packs, tents, sleeping bags, the lot. I was happy to just have my lunch, my water and some waterproof clothing in case of rain in my back pack. 

It did start to rain about 30 minutes out of Reeth which was our destination today. We were lucky as all afternoon the grey skies had been threatening us.

We had 45 minutes to explore Reeth before being picked up for the 26 mile journey back to Kirkby Stephen for our last night and our lovely home cooked dinner. Tonight I chose lamb chops.

I found a can of Shandy Bass in a little shop in Reeth and it tasted so good.

My boots are looking well worn and grubby now. 

11 miles done today with only 330m of ascent bringing the total mileage now to 107 miles. 

My feet are feeling sore and hot tonight but nothing a good nights sleep won't help.

X 

Day 7 Squelching into Yorkshire through Peat Bogs

We walked out of Kirky Stephen after a delicious breakfast of porridge, fruit and marmite on toast and visiting the unusual red sandstone church.

Straight away we started a long climb up to Nine Standards Rigg which in the words of Wainwright is an occasion for celebration as it is the main watershed of the walk with an interesting viewpoint on it

Nine cairns like the four in this picture which from a distance look like teeth across the brow of the hill.

It is from here on the spine of the Pennines that the watershed changes and the rivers which have been flowing West to the Irish Sea will flow East to the North Sea from now on. We will also not reach this height again on the rest of the walk.

So that's good news then, not so many long, steep uphills which have been torturous across the Lake District.

Heading down from the Nine Standards Rigg we entered a very large peat bog area that, if you weren't careful you would be up to and over the top of your boots. Hooray, I'm glad I invested in my £10 gaitors. They don't look so good but they did the trick. I didn't fancy half a peat bog competing with my feet for the insides of my boots. It was very squelchy with high muddy banks and difficult to walk at any decent pace.

I even had a slip up one of the banks which I couldn't style out and found myself side on in one of the long grassy areas on top of the bogs. As Mike (one of our team) says it's not the fall but the loss of dignity that's worse. I just had a muddy knee to show for my tumble.

We came upon a sign which marked the leaving behind of Cumbria and the official entering of Yorkshire. It was completely surrounded in bog which we continued to squelch through for a good few miles as we headed downhill.

We came upon a remote farm with a sign saying Slow Down Free Range Children. There were bikes laying discarded on the grass, an old go kart, washing blowing in the wind on the line and two small kids aged about 2 and 4 dragging plastic shopping baskets around, you know, the type you get in the co op with wheels on. They were bringing in wood from the barn and taking it into the house for the fire. They could barely talk but were merrily running up and down to Raven Seat Farm house with their loads. This was the farm house of Amanda Owen the famous Yorkshire Shepherdess who has 8 children ranging from 14 years down to 11 weeks old. She came out with mugs of tea for everyone and freshly baked scones with jam and cream. What an incredible woman. She even found time to chat and I bought her book from her which she says is going to be made into a film.  She also told me as she was signing the book, that she is working on another in her free time from 8pm to 1am in the evenings. How does she get any free time with a husband and all those kids to look after? 

This is the sign with the farm in the distance behind.

We continued on our way and arrived in a very tiny village called Keld where we were picked up in a mini bus and driven back to The Jolly Farmer and lovely Carol who was waiting for us in Kirkby Stephen.

Hot showers, clean washing in bags all done and a delicious hot meal of trout then an early night was very welcome.

11 miles today with 540m ascent today so our total is 96 miles which is exactly half way in this epic trip.

My boots are holding up well but I have one small blister on the side of my left heal.

X

Day 6 The Longest Day

Blue skies and a virtually cloudless sky greeted us as we set off at 8.15am to leave Shap and cross the M6 via a walk bridge. Everyone was joking last night that I would use a lollipop stick to hold up the traffic on the M6 as we all crossed the motorway in single file. Of course this didn't happen as we didn't want to get arrested and locked up and not complete the trek. But it would have been funny nevertheless.

Today we were aiming to do 21 miles. It was a fairly easy undulating trail across field after field of sheep, cows and even a few Shetland ponies.

We walked for 9 hours and never saw a village or a shop. We hardly saw any cars either and I couldn't believe I was really in the UK. The sun shone non stop and actually it became a bit too warm for the daily plod. Who would know that there was so much countryside in our own country that was so unspoilt.

Eventually we arrived in Kirkby Stephen and kicked off our boots outside the Jolly Farmer guest house.

Carol appeared at the door with bags for our dirty boots. We were staying here for three nights so it was laundry time, stuff it in a bag for £10 a bag. My bag was bursting with socks that could walk themselves along the road, they were smelly and crispy and various other tops and leggings that also were on the pongy side.

We ate a gorgeous meal and watched some of Julia Bradbury's Coast to Coast Walk on DVD. We just watched up to where we had been as we didn't want it to spoil any surprises for the rest if the trip.

Here is Elizabeth and I outside the front of the guest house.

Must sleep now as time passes so quickly in the evenings and I need more sleep after all this excertion every day xxx

Day 5 The Hardest Day

This morning we woke with butterflies. Nervous about the day ahead. Early breakfast and early start and walking by 8.30am.

After only 20 minutes we already started the trudge uphill and that's how it was for 3 and a quarter hours until we reached the top of Kidsty Pike.

High fives all round, we had made it to the highest point of the walk, the highest peak in Wainwright's walk.

Below is a picture of Kidsty Pike, the dark point in the centre of the picture.

The weather was spectacular with long views all around. Incredible skies and sunshine now and again. Sadly Bill and Anne from Sydney didn't come with us today as Bill was unwell so it wasn't a full team but nevertheless we were all really proud of ourselves.

I was pleased I took my flag.

Elizabeth and I at the peak. It was turning out to be a really great day. So chuffed we had made it.

Then the steep descent down the other side in full sunshine and an incredibly blue sky.

So we finally made it to The Greyhound Pub and Hotel in Shap after 9 hours of walking, 16.5 miles and 900m of ascent. Exhausting day.

In bed before 9.45pm. Boots drying out and resting for a long day tomorrow.

Day 4 the easiest day

This is going to be a short post. 

We have an early start tomorrow for one of our most difficult days of ascents and consequent descents.

Today we only tucked 8.5 miles under our belt bringing the total to 47 miles in all. Our easiet day of the trip.

We made a steep climb in the morning to the clouds and then tried to descend as fast as we could to get out of the mizzle that the clouds produced.

Up in the clouds.

For some reason I had my back to where we were heading coming down the other side.

On the way down we passed the Brothers Parting stone  where William Wordsworth last saw his brother before he died on a shipwreck. This poem was read out in the misty rain by Howard. It was very sad.

“Here did we stop; and here looked round

While each into himself descends,

For that last thought of parting Friends

That is not to be found.

Brother and friend, if verse of mine

Have power to make thy virtues known,

Here let a monumental Stone

Stand–sacred as a Shrine.”

Later it was time for some fun.

Selfie stick time 

This is short but sweet. Time to get set for a big day tomorrow. Compeed plasters at the ready.

Boots drying out nicely. Let's sleep.

X

Day 3 Minion Day

For some reason today everyone was shocked when I appeared in my yellow jacket. Ok I agree I do look like a Minion in it but I have to confess I don't know much about them. Are they nice things? Also I forgot that only Elizabeth knows I like bright colours. Why would anyone else here know that?

When we saw a tiny plastic Minion in someone's front garden as we walked past everyone was taking pictures of it.

So here I am on the top of one of our climbs, you can make your own mind up.

We had all weathers today and I changed my clothes as if I was backstage at a fashion show, fast and many times to suit sun, rain, wind, mizzle, dry and cloudy. 

Gloves, hats, jackets, waterproof trousers, gaitors on and off to suit.

We seemed to climb on and on today out of Seatoller to Rosthwaite then up following rivers water falling from the hills around and seeping from the peat bogs on the top plateau.

At Greenup Edge we could look back down the valley and see Scotland in the very far distance.

Thank goodness for my poles is all I can say. I will never walk steep hills again without them.

Time for a team picture at the top.

As the weather improved Howard decided we should take the slightly longer ridge route over Calf Crag and Helm Crag before our steep descent into Grasmere. As we were running late and our mini buses were waiting for us we were denied retail therapy and marched straight to the car park much to the ladies disappointment but we've been promised a quick look round in the morning.

Back to the Derwent Bank Hotel in Keswick owned by HF Holidays. An incredible big old building with ornamental gardens situated on the banks of Derwent Water.

The food is magnificent with huge servings served by very lovely Richard. You can decide who he reminded me of , I can't say in this public blog but he was so welcoming and attentive we wanted him to come with us in the rest of the trip.

Everything was "champion" in his world. 

Today we walked 10.5 miles with about 600m of ascent.

I have a tiny blister on my heal but nothing to fret about. Otherwise my feet are fine considering the amount of wet boggy land we traipsed and water crossings we made balancing on precarious rocks. Boots are now drying in the warm boot room they have here and I'm off to bed packed and ready to move hotels tomorrow.

X

Day 2 and it rained most of the day

Oh gosh what to wear was the dilemma at breakfast as the rain lashed the windows of the Sheperds Arms Hotel.

Today I dragged out all my new wet weather gear and finally realised I was going to have to wear the glorious wet weather trousers, like them or not.

I don't know why I did it but on a spur of the moment desicion I volunteered to be the back marker of the group or sweeper as the say in USA. We only have one leader so each of us has to take a turn at being at the back so we don't loose any of our group along the way.

Howard, our leader said that as it was going to be a difficult day he was glad to have me there as I was a strong walker. I felt a little warm inside when he said this as that was always my worry that I would struggle to keep up with the pack. 

We set off and the path took us along the side of Ennerdale Water which looked more like sea as the wind was causing "white horses" across the surface of the lake.

We then plodded along the valley on Forest Road for a few more miles just as Alfred Wainwright described.

 

I soon realised that marking the back of the group involved waiting for people while they went behind a bush or when they stopped to take photos. It made the walk less strenuous especially when we climbed the steep trail amongst the purple heather as I was constantly stopping to do my marker duty.

We walked mainly in rivulets of water that ran down the pathways and I hoped my boots would behave and keep my feet dry. As I sploshed through the trail I took time to listen to the sounds around me, small rivers running down the slopes and the wind blowing across the open hills. My feet felt ok, not wet, just warm and I  began to start to hope that my boots and I would get along just fine.

Me in the rain

A view across the lake while Howard was explaining the next part of our walk.

Rosy cheeked and feeling happy to reach the top of our ascent today 630m approx. the rain had stopped for a short while. Look at the heather and behind me you can see where I had just walked up.

Coming down the other side.

Burdock plant, the flowers of which is what Velcro was based on.

Vel stands for velour and cro stands for crochet hooks for the hook part of the Velcro. I never knew that. 

We got picked up and taken to a different hotel tonight with equally amazing food. It was an HF Holiday hotel especially equipped with a boot drying room catering purely for walkers. Our bags had been transported during the day from the last hotel to this and were efficiently waiting for us in our rooms.

We heard owls hooting tonight from our bedroom window and it sounds like it's raining again. :(

I must sleep now as its getting late. 

Xxx

Day 1 of the Alfred Wainwright's Coast to Coast walk and it was full sunshine with a lot of wind

We were all in good spirit as we got dropped into St Bees for the start of our mammoth walk.

The sun was shining and slightly windy but a beautiful day forecast ahead. 

We had photos taken and dipped the toe of our boots into the sea which is the custom. Then we chose a pebble to carry across to the other coast which is also customary. I tried to pick a special looking pebble but in the end decided to take two.

It was glorious to walk along the cliff tops overlooking the sea directly opposite the Isle of Man which wasn't in view due to mist on the horizon. 

The first part of the trail heads north west and then North which seems mean when we are supposed to be heading East. We soon started heading inland and in front of us loomed Dent which looked like a bald monks head looming out of the trees below. 

We reached the top with steady trudging and had amazing views all around us, It was even possible to see Scotland to the north. 

Then we had a steep drop down into a picturesque valley and the walk back to our hotel where we started from in the taxi van this morning. 

No blisters, thank you boots but thank goodness for the walking poles.

14 miles tucked under our belts and only 178 to go.

Thanks for reading, good night. X

Toe dipping at St Bees beach.

It was very windy at the top of Dent

St Bees is on the coast behind me.

Arrival to St Bees and meeting the others

Most of today was spent on the train to Carlisle and then we went in a 50 year old train, Mary Queen of Scots, onwards to St Bees. 

This train set the group of trainspotters at Carlisle station into a spin as it had recently been renovated and they were all running around trying to get the best photos of it.

We met Howard, our leader for the two week hike, on the train and as we travelled along the coastal railway line we exchanged stories of past walking experiences. 

At St Bees we met up with everyone. 14 of us in total and surprisingly only 4 men.

It included a group of 3 ladies from Canada and a couple who had come all the way from Australia. I felt almost local in comparison.

So a quick photo stop and wander round before heading off  by taxi to The Shepherd Arms Hotel in Ennerdale Bridge where we will be staying for 2 nights. 

Tomorrow we will be driven back to St Bees to start at the sea and do the customary toe dipping into the water before setting off. 

The three course meal we were served was delicious and such huge portions. At this rate I will be putting weight on during the trip if every night has similar. 

Then retiring to our room to prepare our bags for tomorrow and think of foot strategies. Do we wear plasters before we get blisters? Talc? Vaseline? Compeed Gel? Oh gosh too many desicions so maybe lets sleep on it and decide in the morning.

My boots are waiting at the end of my bed. Sitting quietly and waterproofed and itching to get going.

Not long now.

Arriving at St Bees, it's a glorious sunny day.

St Bees School, the motto above the door in Latin reads "Enter so that you may make progress".

Sleep time for me now 

Xx